The most generous and hospitable place I’ve ever visited is the island of Capri (which the locals pronounce KAH-pree, with the emphasis on the first syllable). My lovely wife and I were married there eleven years ago on September 1. We didn’t really know what we were doing — my wife coordinated everything with the Italian consulate in San Francisco and the US consulate in Naples. Neither of us spoke much Italian, so she arranged everything through translators whom we did not meet until we arrived in Capri — not knowing whether we would really be able to pull this whole thing off in the two weeks we had in Italy.
We met with a city official and one of our translators, Gloria Isita (a wonderful lady who was a high school English teacher in Naples). In the official’s presence she explained to us what would occur a week later. “The mayor will marry you,” she said.
The official interrupted her without looking up from his paperwork, “Oh no — the mayor has not time for this. A lesser official will conduct the ceremony.”
A week later, after touring Rome, Venice, and Siena, we returned to Capri and entered the historic town hall off the Piazzetta. There stood the mayor with the green-white-and-red official banner draped from his shoulder to his waist. He welcomed us as if we were foreign dignitaries, and gave us gifts. He had even brought flowers for my lovely bride. He then performed the ceremony with the utmost dignity — in Italian, with our translator giving it to us in English. Afterwards, I asked our translator if it were customary for us to give something to the mayor — but she told us no, that in fact he would be offended if I offered. He was very kind and treated us like royalty.
But that wasn’t all.
Gloria had arranged for our witnesses to be two of her English students — a brother and sister who were the children of the Captain of the Port of Capri. The brother, Giuseppe, showed us all around the island. Everyone knew him and greeted him. He took us to see the Blue Grotto — a cave in the side of the island whose entrance is mostly underwater, which renders the cave pitch black inside, but with glowing blue water. It was a favorite retreat for the emperor Tiberius and his lovers, and is now one of the best known tourist attractions of the island. Normally, you pay the equivalent of about $40 US each to wait in line to get into small boats to enter the cave. But when the son of the Captain of the Port calls to one of the boaters, they come right over and take you in ahead of everyone else without asking for even one lira.
But that wasn’t all.
The best service we received on Capri happened the very first night we arrived. We stayed at the Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri, and for dinner we walked up the hill to a local restaurant. I wish I could remember the name of it, but it was on the right side of the road among the shops in Anacapri. We dined al fresco as the sun set. The owner waited on us himself, and he was very attentive to our needs without getting in the way.
Our daughter, who was only a little over a year old, suddenly filled her diaper. She had just begun eating adult foods on that trip, and her digestive system was still adjusting. The stench was unimaginable. We had walked about a mile to the restaurant, and hadn’t seen any public restrooms along the way. So I asked the owner if there was any place where we could change her.
“Uno momento,” he said, and immediately disappeared. A moment later he returned and beckoned us to follow him. I carried our daughter, and my wife brought the diaper bag. He led us into the back of the restaurant. There we saw his wife, holding a crying baby. The owner motioned to us to use the baby’s stroller as a changing table. He had made his wife pick up their sleeping child, waking said child, to make room for us to change our daughter. And he disposed of the dirty diaper for us.
Needless to say, he received a very generous tip.